“You’ll be fine, Lotte!” I encourage my ten-year-old daughter as she dangles in a harness, buffeted by a Swiss alpine breeze at almost 11,000 feet. She emits a yelp as, with a crack and a clang, her small form explodes down Europe’s highest zipline, hurtling at 80 miles per hour over the crevasses of Verbier’s Tortin glacier. With her safe arrival, my smile drops and stomach is gripped by icy claws as the realisation dawns: I’m next.
There had already been high drama on the high line as the pair of us approached and then retreated from the Mont 4 Zipline launch platform no fewer than four times (a record, I’m informed by kindly Jean-Francois, the attendant). With the mothering motto of “lead by example”, before you can cry “Bötchyo!” (“Help” in the local dialect) I’m soaring almost a mile (this overachieving zipline is also the Alps’ longest) into Lotte’s arms as she jubilantly squeals, “We did it!”
During a three-night stay in the Verbier-Val du Bagnes-La Tzoumaz region, an easy two train trip from Geneva airport, there wasn’t much we hadn’t done. It had been a high octane 72 hours of Mother and Daughter vs. Wild and the surprises kept popping out like an array of cuckoo clocks. We’ve gone up (on a via ferrata), down (on fat tire scooters), and in (discovering secret mountainside doors), as well as staring into a zipline abyss and surviving a cow herd stand-off. But – and this is the crucial element – we’ve done it together.
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As a working mother, time with my children is the ultimate luxury and on our first mother-daughter trip I had fully intended on showering my eldest with the most precious gift I can give: undivided attention. We’re not alone on this mini break, joining four other mums, children and a “fun aunt”, determined to “expose my niece to activities out of her comfort zone, doing things that you simply can’t do at home”.
That box is quickly ticked. The next day her niece and my daughter are pretending to be twerking mountain goats mid-gorge, while climbing along a steel cable (called a via ferrata or “iron way”, bolted to the rocks) to the bemusement of the mountain guide. While most know this area as Switzerland’s largest skiing domain, in summer it’s a spectacular outdoor playground. And because nature doesn’t have power points, in both seasons it’s an invitation to turn off the tech.
The de-plugging begins in Bonatchiesse, its own mini galaxy tucked in the furthest nook of the 325 square kilometre region. At Camping du Bonatchiesse our tent site fully reveals the fairytale nature of the valley, nestled at 5200 feet where the road stops and peaks begin. Spruce glades and clearings conceal a mini zipline playground and even a pop-up pool.
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The re-wilding happens quickly Jumping over logs, excited child chatter blends into a sweet symphony involving a bass beat of water and songbird staccato. iPhones 0. Nature 1.
We learn here was a second campsite in the valley, now buried by a landslide that took the bridge with it, cutting off little Bonatchiesse for two months. Discovering the nearby (sole) restaurant, where we swirl fondue sticks like Star Wars lightsabres, I start to think that I’d quite like to be stranded here for two months. Strolling back to camp under an apricot alpine glow betters any 4K screensaver. The cherry on this alpine gateau is falling asleep to the lullaby of my daughter’s soft breaths, a soothing soundtrack for my soul.
The next morning before we switch to our downtown hotel (the chic Hôtel du Verbier with Jacuzzi where we find fluffy beds and bountiful breakfasts), we visit the engineering masterpiece of Mauvoisin Dam from above.
Turbo charged waterfalls ricochet off mountain flanks, forming cauldrons in the turquoise waters. Then we’re inside the mountain itself, exploring a hand carved tunnel now photo gallery recording the 1800 mainly Italian dam workers’ lives. Lotte and I zoom in on their rockabilly hairstyles and Marilyn Monroe pinups.
As an adventure lover I’ve encouraged my active daughter to be courageous and curious, but after taking the (free) shuttle to Verbier a thought seed blooms: has the pupil become the master? While scootering through alpine meadows from La Chaux gondola station to bustling Verbier, she roars ahead while I hunch over handlebars, both brakes on. At the Treetop Park ropes course she’s abseiling down a three-storey tower while I’m being overtaken by nimble seven year olds. And at the Mont 4 Zipline it hits me – my girl is growing up.
On a post zipline high we have “a life celebration”, sharing a homemade blueberry tiramisu at Le Dahu. We discuss three things we learned on our final day: That we could overcome fear; that it’s also OK to leave situations that don’t feel ‘right’; and above all, it’s important to stop and celebrate achievements with a cherry (or blueberry) on top.
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As I watch her bound down the mountain like a free, unfettered lamb on a tiramisu sugar rush, I add my own private, newly learned fourth lesson: Make room for moments. Dropping the tech has charged our own batteries – just one nature-filled long weekend has created mountains of core memories that will linger for a lifetime.
Felicity travelled as a guest of Verbier and the Swiss Travel network.
How to get there
Airlines including British Airways, easyJet and Swiss fly direct from the UK to Geneva. Flight time is sound 1 hour 45 minutes. Aer Lingus flies direct from Dublin to Geneva.
From Geneva, you can take the train to Verbier with Travel Switzerland in under two hours. Point-to-point tickets start at £40 one-way.
For every night spent in Verbier, Val de Bagnes – La Tzoumaz, visitors receive a free Verbier Infinite Playground (VIP) Pass offering discounts the entire area throughout the summer season.
Where to stay
A tent pitch in Le Camping Bonatchiesse starts from 8 CHF(£7) and tipis with breakfast, floor mattresses, sleeping bags, and pillows are from 39 CHF/£36 for adults (14 years +) and 22 CHF/ £20pp child (2-14 years, under 2 years are free).
At the four-star Hotel de Verbier prices start at £285 (302€) for a double room and £588.02 (528.62€) in a family room, sleeping up to five.
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